90 Gallon Build Thread

I would match the trim on the doors. So if the inlay is walnut, it would be walnut on the doors as well. This leaves the problem of having a huge section of walnut on the doors for a relatively minor accent piece on the stand itself. Alternatively, I could make some "false" doors and instead of having 2 massive doors, separate it into 2 pseudo-doors (that are really just one big door with an oak trim board in the middle). If I went with Option 5, I would just make the trim around the door walnut.

 

It could. Alternatively, if I went with Option 5 (which is growing on me), it makes the walnut accents really easy, consistent and not over powering any part of the stand. They always remain as just "accents", not focal points. Additionally, option 5 means I don't need to get walnut plywood. Though it does mean I need to find crown moulding in walnut (oak is a lot more popular so there are more options).

 

It is. If I get in a bind... the fiance-to-be's father build custom cabinets for a living. I'm sure he would be very capable of providing assistance. Granted, it's always nice to be able to have him walk over and see a beautiful stand (though I would like to get a start on it before consulting him so I get as much of "me" into it as possible).

 

More progress.







Should be ready to skin soon. I'm planning out the front panel to see how big of opening I should make in the skin (for the door reveal and what not). Also, might start planning a sump soon. I had thought of the ProFlex 3-4... but I'm thinking it might be better for me to just build it and get it exactly how I want it.

 

Progress







Oh, and some may get excited by this...




I may be transitioning toward skinning the canopy soon as well.

 

I sealed the frame tonight. I also added 2x4s in the front for mounting the doors. I am hoping tonight or tomorrow morning (more likely) to cut the oak trim for the front. It'll REALLY start looking like a stand at that point. Oh, and I picked up a light to mount in the stand for a sump light (not the sump light that'll be growing cheato... just a work light).

 

Oh, and I picked up some 8020 framing to start building the frame for my LEDs. And the heat sinks are on the way in for those as well. I'm thinking 2 - 100W LEDs at 20k (the multichips). Then I'll throw some 3W Crees of varying colors around the frame for the LEDs for supplementation. I will be mounting 2 - 120mm fans in the back of the canopy to vent the canopy.

Oh, and I picked up some 8020 framing to start building the frame for my LEDs. And the heat sinks are on the way in for those as well. I'm thinking 2 - 100W LEDs at 20k (the multichips). Then I'll throw some 3W Crees of varying colors around the frame for the LEDs for supplementation. I will be mounting 2 - 120mm fans in the back of the canopy to vent the canopy.

 

Just a little more progress. Stand is now sealed, I need to seal the canopy as well. I also have cut the front skin for the stand and it's been attached. I also mounted a sump access light that will be run via switch on the powerstrip to help me see when I'm working in the sump (not the same light for growing my chaeto in the fuge). I also mounted some cross beams in the canopy to mount my LED set up to. I will drill holes and put some eye bolts in, which will then be linked to the LED frame.





I will be figuring out how to route the wires to keep them off the ground and minimize the clutter in the stand.

 

Small progress update this morning.
Cut egg crate for the bottom of the tank for when rock gets ordered and cured and all that. Just picking off little tasks that need done eventually.

Cut egg crate for the top of the tank to act as a covered top to prevent (or at least slow down) some jumpers). It fits perfectly and shouldn't block the LEDs too much.

It also slides rather easily on with the canopy frame mounted. This is very important so I don't have to remove the canopy to put fish in or just general in tank things.

And, cut out the foot print of a 30 gallon tank that I'm hoping to pick up for the sump. Had to make sure I could slide it in at an angle because it's actually a hint wider than the opening of the front of the tank. Once I get the tank and set it in the stand, I can start mounting in the powerstrip and routing wires. I want as much hidden as possible. I'll silicone the baffles and what not in once I get all my sump equipment to make sure it all fits prior to finishing any sort of "designs" on the build.

 

They are stainless (says the box anyway). I'm going to check today for a better grade stainless and see if it isn't $10 for a handful of them. I also coated the entire canopy frame with sealant. I can also put some "caps" over the screw heads since they are counter sunk. Trust me, there's some awesome stuff getting ready to develop... just waiting on the parts to come in /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/biggrin.gif

 

Yesterday, picked up a 30 gallon tank for the sump (went to three places to find one, and then had to separate it from the kit it was in). Went to Lowe's and grabbed some other things to help out as well, mostly things to help routing cords in the stand and some plumbing. Lastly, a trip to RadioShak for an AC to DC power adapter. I also got trim samples and am pretty sure I know what trim I want to go with.
I'll just leave this here as well:

 

So, maybe some additional pictures about the earlier object.







It's able to be dropped into a 3" hole I drill into the sump. It works similar to a muffler on a car. The water flows in the 1.5" PVC down to the bottom of the sump. At that point, it hits the end cap and has to flow back up the 3" PVC. At the top, it flows out of the holes in the reducer and will hit a platform where there will be filter sock holes so the water can be filtered. I'm currently thinking of just hand tightening the PVC cap at the bottom so the entire thing is removable in case it doesn't work as intended or if there is a problem with it. The downside is I was planning on siliconing where the reducer meets the glass so I have a seal for the water to want to go through the filter sock. Anyway, it's actually "done" at this point and now I'm just waiting to decide when I want to buy the glass for the sump baffles. I'm going to be in contact with a local glass shop tomorrow after I assemble a list of glass needed to finish the sump baffles and my entrance area, which will have a separate compartment to allow me to use filter socks and what not if I want. I'm waiting on my protein skimmer and return pump to make sure my compartments are big enough.

 

Just ordered a BRS 5 stage RO/DI with RO drinking water bypass kit, Reef Octopus 150, and Eheim 1260 return pump.

 

It functions similarly to the design by Aqueon on their ProFlex line. The general idea is that the incoming water "breaks" below the water surface, so the water (and PVC) acts as a muffler for the incoming water. This design forces the water back up where it can gently flow through filter socks as well so I retain that macro-filtering. The system I built is also easily removable if I don't like it (just remove the end cap). While it may leak a little, the vast majority of the water will still flow through the filter socks.